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First Aid; When to go to the vet - What should be in your kit?
Topic Started: Oct 24 2006, 01:01 PM (29 Views)
BUUZBEE
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FIRST AID

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Note: ALL the answers in this section are what to do right then and there. Should the situation be serious, get to the vet, who will perform "Second aid" First aid is just to hold the bird over 'till the vet visit. IT IS NOT A CURE.
Q. Can I buy complete bird first aid kits?
A. Yes, you can!

Exotic Bird Care
Bird Aid
7514 Charmant Drive
San Diego, CA, 92122
1-619-793-2473
$14.95 plus $2.00 s/h
CA residents add 7.75% tax
Petiatric Supply Co.
First Aid Kit
3030 Mascot
Wichita, KS, 67204-4406
Phone: 316-831-9500
Fax: 316-831-9400
Email: info@petiatric.com
VSI Pet Care Products
First Aid For Pets
Call 1-800-831-7245
E-Mail: vsipurch@aol.com


Q. I would like to put together my own kit. What should be in it?
A. First get a toolbox to put everything in. Then you should get:
your vet's phone number
booklet on general first aid procedures
small, bright flashlight
heating pad
heat lamp
thermometer
tweezers
scissors
nail clippers
emeryboard (have several handy)
long needlenosed pliers or a hemostat - to remove broken blood feathers (hemostats can be purchased at Radio Shack in the tool section)
Styptic powder (pencils are too hard) - only use on nails or beak !!
bar of soap - can also be used to stop bleeding of nails and beak
corn starch - to control bleeding from wounds on the body
various sized towels or soft baby blankets
masking tape or other tape that won't ruin feathers
assorted bandages, gauze, or gauze sponges - for cleaning wounds
Q-tips
bottled water
Betadine scrub
hydrogen peroxide
rubbing alcohol (but don't use on head or vent)
Neosporin
assorted syringes (with and without needles)
baggies - for stool samples or storing a sample of poisons or other substances the bird may have ingested
pet carrier - just in case you need to make a trip to the vet
Gerber's High Protein baby food or Handfeeding formula (or whatever your vet recommends
Q. What shouldn't I do to the bird?
A. Never use oils or lotions which contain oils on your bird. They gunk up the feathers, and ruin their insulating properties. This means a chilled bird. Never wait out a cat bite--those require immediate veterinary attention--a bird can die within two days because a cat's mouth is so filthy and full of bacteria. Don't bother with over-the-counter medication. It really doesn't work, and in some cases, may upset the delicate bacterial balance in the bird's body, or even worsen the situation. Never try to treat a fracture at home.

Q. My bird is healthy. I don't need to go to a vet, do I?
A. Schedule a "well-bird" checkup. Prevention is the best medicine. Even though the bird might appear outwardly healthy, it may have a low-grade infection or something not so readily apparent. Your bird's health and your peace of mind will be worth it.

Q. My bird's leg is being rubbed raw by the leg band. Can I take it off?
A. No. Don't attempt this, especially if the leg is broken or swollen. The vet will be able to remove the band, and deal with whatever injury maybe lurking under the banded area.

Q. How do I pull a broken blood feather?
A. This is probably the most common mishap. The remedy is simple--yank! It's most easily done with two people. One to restrain the bird and the other to pull the feather. Use pliers, or a hemostat. Tweezers won't work on primaries. Make certain that the wing bones are firmly supported or you can break the wing. Clamp onto the feather and give a sharp tug in the direction of the feather. The feather will come out. Next, apply gentle, direct pressure to the follicle where the feather was to stop the bleeding. Dab some styptic powder on it, as it will help stop the bleeding as well. Let the bird rest. Ask your vet or breeder to demonstrate exactly how to pull a blood feather if you're apprehensive about doing it.

Q. My bird has broken its wing, what now?
A. Get thee to a vet! But take precautions to immobilize the wing. Using butcher, drafting, or masking tape (which isn't too sticky) tape the wing gently to the body.

Q. My bird can't lay her eggs. What can I do to help?
A. Put her in a hospital cage, and keep her warm. Sometimes this is all it takes. Never try to expel the egg yourself, it may break, and then the bird may get an infection. Call the vet, just in case. When the egg is stuck, the bird cannot relieve itself, and toxins build up.

Q. What can I do for a burn?
A. Rinse with lots and lots of cool water. A burn is a very serious injury because they are so prone to infection.

Q. My sick bird isn't eating!
A. Even eating treat foods is better than not eating at all. Try a hand-feeding formula if all else fails.

Q. My bird is wheezing, what could this mean?
A. The bird may have inhaled a seed hull or a bit of pellet. This is very serious. Also, the bird may have air-sac mites (Gouldian Finches are prone to these) or an infection. All these require vet care.

Q. I feel like this is all my fault, why did this happen?
A. Even with the best of intent and cautions, mishaps occur. That's exactly why they're called accidents.

http://www.upatsix.com/faq/aid.htm
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BUUZBEE
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All advice that is given on this page is by BUUZBEE. I recommend that if your bird is seriously sick or injured, Please see a Veterinarian. If you prolong anything, you will be risking your pets life. Use of any of these treatments is by discretion of you, the bird owner. Conure Crazy will not be held responsible if your bird dies!

Please take your bird to a veterinarian immediately if showing any of these signs:
Loss of appetite, weight loss, depression, weakness, coughing, sneezing, favors one leg or wing. and has seizures.

Bleeding from nail Apply kwik-stop to nail. if you do not have kwik-stop you may use the following: cornstarch, flour or bar of soap.

Bleeding from feather Only if Vet is not around. Use forceps to slowly and steadily remove feather. Apply pressure to area. Keep bird quiet. If bleeding does not stop take to Vet immediately.

Burns Take to Vet immediately. Heat- apply cold compress and water soluble cream. Chemical-flush area with water.

Coma Take to Vet immediately. Keep quiet and cool.

Diarrhea Take a sample to Vet. Get treatment if needed. If bird becomes dehydrated offer Electrolyte fluids mixed with baby cereal.
Eyes Take to Vet. May apply natural tears to eyes. Do not use Visine or antibiotic drops or ointments.

Egg-Binding Take to Vet immediately. Keep warm.

Lacerations Take to Vet immediately. Keep quiet and apply pressure to the area to stop bleeding.

Oil Contamination Keep warm. Use dishwashing detergent to remove oil. Dry bird in towel.

Overheating Keep cool. Perch bird in cool water and mist body. If still panting, contact your Vet.

Passing Whole Seeds Take to Vet. Keep warm.

Poisoning Take to Vet immediately. Keep warm and well ventilated.

Prolapse of Cloaca Take to Vet immediately.

Respiratory Take to Vet immediately. Keep warm.

Vomiting Take to Vet. Keep warm. Remove food and water.
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BUUZBEE
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What should be in your birds first aid kit

your vet's phone number
booklet on general first aid procedures
small, bright flashlight
heating pad
heat lamp
thermometer
tweezers
scissors
nail clippers
emeryboard (have several handy)
long needlenosed pliers or a hemostat - to remove broken blood feathers (hemostats can be purchased at Radio Shack in the tool section)
Styptic powder (pencils are too hard) - only use on nails or beak !!
bar of soap - can also be used to stop bleeding of nails and beak
corn starch - to control bleeding from wounds on the body
various sized towels or soft baby blankets
masking tape or other tape that won't ruin feathers
assorted bandages, gauze, or gauze sponges - for cleaning wounds
Q-tips
bottled water
Betadine scrub
hydrogen peroxide
rubbing alcohol (but don't use on head or vent)
Neosporin ONLY USE ORIGINAL FORUMLA
assorted syringes (with and without needles)
baggies - for stool samples or storing a sample of poisons or other substances the bird may have ingested
pet carrier - just in case you need to make a trip to the vet
Gerber's High Protein baby food or Handfeeding formula (or whatever your vet recommends
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